Saturday, November 26, 2011

New Arrival



When I first saw Mir, she was bobbing in her mooring at Raffles Marina, still bundled up from the weeks she had spent alone while the rest of the crew made preparations back in the states. My landlubber eyes could barely tell the difference, but she was already stripped naked, empty of all of the ropes, rigging, and canvas that she would need for life. It was only when I hopped on board that I noticed the difference - the few words I had picked up from Moby Dick and Horatio Hornblower helped clue me in that things, like the sails, were missing. She was lying clean, exposed, ready for the facelift of a lifetime.


Now, six weeks later, she looks a bit different. A heart-transplant interrupted mid-procedure would seem a lot like a murder, and Mir looks to be in a similar condition, even down to the surgical gown tenting she's wrapped in to protect her innards from the monsoon rains. Her masts are off, her teak deck has been stripped, most of her second layer of wood has been sawn away, her hatches have been cut out, and a few chunks of the worst steel has been excised from her aft. We are well on our way.


The ultimate goal is to put a layer of steel underneath the original teak deck, replacing the old, soggy underlying wood with a watertight plate. The constant leaks and corrosion had been a recurring issue and steadily grown to surpass the pots and pans catchment system the crew had been improvising. With a new deck, secure from the elements, Mir should be set to continue her work for years to come.


Getting there is the tricky part. We began in Raffles Marina, the home-port for Mir and Biosphere Foundation’s projects for nearly two decades. Safe and comfortable in a secure setting and amongst many friends, we took apart the cabin interiors and emptied her of all but the barest essentials.



Under the shade of a blue umbrella, we experimented with different ways of carefully removing the plugs, screws, and rubber caulking that fastened the teak to the deck, before teaching the new tricks to our enthusiastic volunteers on a few work party Saturdays.



We couldn't start taking all of it apart yet - we still had to keep her seaworthy to get her to the next stage - but everything that wasn't needed went, (like every second nut holding down the deck)


Our next leg was my first trip on Mir, a five hour motor down the Singapore Straits, dodging tug boats, massive barges and supertanking leviathans.



Slipping into our berth at ASL Shipyard, our new home, we squeezed between the industrial steel giants of global oil and shipping companies, our neighbors for the upcoming months. Our presence is a bit of a peculiarity in ASL, and curious workers stop by every day to watch us working and look at the ship. This industrial and impressive dry-dock has generously offered to help us and provide expert care to us during the many months ahead.



Gaie quickly made friends with the nearby crane operator, who helped us take off our masts and lift our winch.



It's only been a little over a year since the masts were put in, but we'll be refitting the bases for new fittings on the steel plate and shortening our main mast (which is almost comically tall for Mir).



With all of that done, it was time to start taking off the wood. Joe, our amazing carpenter from Malta, has joined us is Singapore to show us how its done.



And once we got started, it came up quick.



But before we could get too far along, we had to get out of the water, which we accomplished with the friendly help of our neighborhood sling-lift, riding the boat up into the air and over, onto land.





Now, she rides on steel props and carefully wedged lincoln-log towers of red blocks, but sometimes she still seems to roll, just a little bit, mischievously, which you catch out of the corner of your eye before you turn and look and the whole world comes back to its heavy reality. Mir has come a long way from her active self, and has a long way before she's back to it, but we're making progress in leaps and bounds every day - stay tuned and you won't miss it.



-- My name is Michael and I've taken over Sam's blog for our time in the dockyards. I'm a recent graduate of Deep Springs College and am currently a student at Yale, taking a year off to work on Mir. I like my peanut butter chunky, my coffee black, and prefer waffles to pancakes. I joined the crew in September and will do my best to carry this blog through until Mir is back in the water and moving on to the next stop.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Completions!

This is the word ringing at the back of our minds right now.

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We left Menjangan, Bali two weeks ago embedded in a deep sense of accomplishment.

A Education Program and a Community Outreach were carried out with full support of the local community, including the Bali Barat National Park.

Yearly, an event called Earth Day’s Celebration is held by the National Park, involving the school students in beach clean ups and other eco-activities. This year, though, the Biosphere’s team was invited to take part on the organization of the festival. It was a gentle acknowledgment of the local authorities in regard of the daily activities held by our Science Team over the coral reefs around Menjangan Island.

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Boat trip to Menjangan Island (above) / Science program (below)

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The celebration also gave place to the launching of a new program called “Friends of Menjangan” - that will carry along the coming years education activities with schools, aiming at raising the awareness of new generations towards the conservation of coral reefs and its green surroundings.

IMGP5586 Performances of dance and music were held by the local students on the Friends of Menjangan Festival, held at the Bali Barat National Park.

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LOGO COLOUR englishAlong side, the Friends of Menjangan program also held an outreach with the community of fishermen and boat drivers, who many times toss their anchors over the corals while taking tourists diving by the island.

In this concern, Laser, MIR’s Captain, did a pretty nice job going around with the boat drivers installing new moorings in the most visited areas, so the drivers can stop their boats safely without damaging the coral reefs. The boats were also given new signs with information about how to protect the coral areas.

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The vessel MIR and Friends of Menjangan adopted two baby trees in the National Park area where Menjangan Resort, our host and great supporter, is located.

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Gaie, Laser, Orla and the Biosphere’s Team leave their roots in this fertile soil… a commitment to foster a deep blue and green future!

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By the end of the science and education programs, it was time to get our dear MIR ready to face the Java Sea back to Singapore.

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This very week we depart once again for a new expedition, now in Anambas Islands… conservation, baby turtles and community outreach waiting for us.

Bon Voyage MIR!!

Satyavan Rogério

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Science, Schools & Friends of Menjangan

One week to unwind a little bit on board of MIR.

DSC01127 Our “Science Team”, led by Orla Doherty, have finally gone through four intense weeks of data collection around these majestic Coral Reefs here in the surroundings of Menjangan Island, West Bali. The transects were run by Orla, Carol Milner, Gaie Alling,  Philip Dustan Phd. (professor of Charleston College), and Tasrif Kartawijaya (Wildlife Conservation Society). The team also counted with Leslie Roberts, an quite experienced diver who’s been on board with us for this season. 

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Massive beauty still resides under these waters - colourful walls covered with a pretty vast variety of luminous corals, algae, sponges… the sheer habitat of thousands species of fish, shrimps, squids, star fishes, as well as turtles and a few sharks (like the Leopard Shark we had the great surprise to come across recently). Certainly these reefs are cradles for uncountable new born marine fauna and flora, a beautiful treasure enveloped in blueness.

DSC_0771 But it’s just one side of the whole picture. Even though we are dealing with a “no-take” zone, protected by the Bali Barat National Park, illegal fishing does takes place all around. Most of the local fishermen have had their vessels turned into facilities to take tourists from the resorts and villas to fun dives, after a conservation programme led by government and NGOS’ initiatives. It seems to have worked well, somehow, in terms of even increasing the income of these family holders. Nevertheless, it’s left a gap open for fishermen from other locations, like Java, to find here a prosper site for fish collection, and the worse is that once the illegal fishing must happen rapidly, the use of dynamites to bomb the coral reefs leaves behind a trail of destruction, death  and rubble which might take ages to be recovered by Mother Nature.

Local boatmen now are getting together to keep watch on the bay, specially on holiday seasons when advantage is taken upon people being out of the sea for religious festivities at the temples.

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Another issue that haunts this sacred paradise is well known to all of us, rubbish and PLASTIC! A ghost spoiling our blue waters and threatening the sea life everywhere in the globe. Nono, a new partner of ours, has been SDC11692 mobilising the community in order to develop recycled products in order to give plastic an artistic and useful future, while working on bringing extra income to some families, an initiative that can really blossom if the necessary support come in hand! 

The Biosphere Foundation’s “Education Team” has just started a programme which includes visit to schools, beach clean-ups, and the launching of a local association called FRIENDS OF MENJANGAN / SAHABAT MENJANGAN (in Bahasa Indonesian). The association is meant to develop activities related to coral reefs’ conservation and eco-education. This idea is the fruit of an old dream weaved together by Gaie, Laser & Orla (Biosphere Foundation) along side with Mr.David, the chairman of Menjangan Jungle & Beach Resort, a great partner who’s invited our team here, and whose life has been dedicated to conservation causes. Now, with the support of the Bali Barat National Park, FRIENDS OF MENJANGAN shall be formally introduced to the local community on the next 7 & 8 of May 2011, in a great celebrative event for Earth’s Day.

We’re really happy to have Kartika Dewi with us at this point of our journey. She’ll be the face and the voice of FRIENDS OF MENJANGAN towards the local community and authorities. This strong Balinese woman is a professor of Bali University, a journalist for Bali Now Magazine, and has been involved with conservation actions for many years. A person easy to fall in love with, due to her passion towards life, wits and courage to stand for the protection of the silent Coral Gardens under the water.

Hope we can also count on your support as well, dear readers from around the Blue Globe, to sponsor and aid all these actions to protect and conserve these Natural Sanctuaries in West Bali.

Love and Gratitude!

Satyavan Rogério

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Menjangan Bay, West Bali

Two tough weeks have passed by on board of MIR in the Menjangan Bay, West Bali.

Ganesha, guardião do templo em Menjangan

Menjangan surely is a majestic and sacred sanctuary of both marine and surface wild life, sunrises and sunsets are breathtaking in here!!

Orla, nossa cientista expert em corais e peixes  The science team, working really hard, set off daily on long diving jams around the island, collecting all sort of data on corals and fish, making use of the transects, underwater pictures, etc… when back to the ship, some time to chill out and, back to work... another long hours to enter all data into the computer, research and catalogue the huge variety of species seen around the reefs.

SDC11540 On the first week, the dives were followed by our honourable guest and friend Professor Phillip Dustan… a living enthusiastic encyclopedia on biosphere affairs. Doctor Phill shall stay with us up to the end of the science team work. Last week, Tasrif, Indonesian eco-activist and specialist in fish, joined the team in order to make it all happen. 

Thanks a million to you gentlemen… wonderful presence both under the water and on the boat!


Gaie e Laser... em meu 3o mergulho Laser, dear Capitan, celebrated his 50th birthday throwing a great party… mystical atmosphere around the deck, fire lamps all around, beautiful people, great music and the full moon, as a goddess, playing with our hearts.

To me, at least, everything seamed slightly ethereal; dancing was the only way to bridge all the mystic realms that mingled together on board of our 100-years-old Lady MIR.

Phill e Laser coletando lixo na praia In between dives, rubbish collection on Menjangan Beaches... here, Phill Dustan and Captain Laser.

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 In the coming weeks the Community Outreach will begin and school children and local people from the village mobilized to celebrate and protect the Menjangan Bay.

Love and gratitude to you, Biospheric friends & heroes!


posted by: satyavan

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Mir Expedition

Ahoy! Warm greetings and news from “MIR” in the South Eastern seas of Asia!!

I left India and Nepal behind after nearly one full year roaming around those mystic grounds. Incredible experiences marked that journey in which I felt surrounded by angels disguised in faces of all nations and accents that sounded to me like melodies of hope and peace. Amongst them all, one in particular is the bridge between me and you, reader of the Biosphere Foundation’s blog…

I met Carol Milner, a long term active crew in Biospheric expeditions, in Pokhara, Nepal, last August 2010. Pokhara is one of those places that you can take for granted, specialy if you are just a traveller passing by on you way to any of the famous trekking destinations around the Himalyan ranges that surround that town and its colourful lake.

Out of the unattractive touristic area by the Fewa Lake, I met Carol in a sort of family run restaurant called Continental Collision… the family also run a language school, the Cosmic Brontosaurus. I guess it was one of those encounters in which you cross eyes with someone and you say to yourself – Gosh! This person came to stay. And so it was, we were sharing great time cherishing expeditions to rivers, mountains, villages…

Carol would take our breath away, from time to time, telling us stories and showing pictures of the Biospheric expeditions she had undergone through out the past years, and that’s how, somehow, Jasmina, our Bosnian-Swedish friend and me, their Brazilian fellow, happened to be entrapped to MIR, the boat of Universal Peace.

To make the long story short… I flew to Singapore to meet MIR and “her” crew and was warmly greeted by Gaie and Laser, ou dear Capitan and host. After a few days warming up, we set sails on a five days voyage towards Jakarta.

Arriving in Jakarta was not easy, the bureocracy we faced to get MIR in and through was outrageous, so I dare saying it’s the sort of destination which sailors could avoid… the laws are not clear and the political games will shake your nerves more than a thousand squalls!!!

Thanks to our dear deeply commited and faithful friends, Nina and Dhany, we made it to get the necessary permits in order to face another sixs days and night towards Bali.

My sincere gratitude to our brave Capitan, Laser, Gaie, Carol, Orla and the fresh new crew, Oliver, Jasmina, Dhany and Adrien who just gave all their energy to make our way throughout scorching sunny days and tempestuous nights…

Now, a new expedition awaits for us in Manjengen where the team of scientists will be diving to collect data, while social outreach shall take place to make kids and grown ups fall in love with the Coral Reefs…

Join us in thoughts, good wishes and with a visit if you happen to be in the area… great meals bewitching those who cross the galley!!

Ahoy
Satyavan

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Mir`s Maiden Voyage Slideshow

Here is a slideshow with photos from our voyage from Malta to Singapore. Enjoy!







Monday, October 4, 2010

The Final Leg Of Mir's Maiden Voyage---Sri Lanka To Singapore

We made it to Singapore!!! We all knew this day would come eventually, but did any of us actually believe it possible? Our crew met in Malta over thirteen months ago, and it was simple enough to say: “Here is this old, run down boat, and we are going to fix her up and then sail her to Singapore.” But to actually do it! Not so simple. But somehow we managed it, and now we’re here, and with a beautiful and elegant ship to boot.

Our voyage across the Bay of Bengal was a breeze (literally). Finally after months of raging winds and swollen seas we were rewarded with perfect sailing weather, as if the Bay of Bengal held out an outstretched arm, palm up, and swept it in front of us, saying: “Right this way my fine people, you’ve worked hard enough.” It was a very peaceful crossing, a perfect finale, and a time to reflect on all that we had accomplished as a team.

Though less harrowing than the previous legs of our voyage, there was no shortage of excitement. Off of the shelf from Sri Lanka we saw Minke Whales up close, and Blue Whales from afar. Again we were visited by many pods of dolphins, but what made these sightings unique were the surprising amounts of baby dolphins we saw mixed in with the pods. The calmness and ease of the elements allowed for more celebrations than usual, and we finally finished the captain’s rum that had been gathering dust since Malta. But perhaps the most memorable of all our stories was the morning that Woody caught a marlin that was over seven feet long! It was incredible, and unfortunately after the almost two hour struggle to get this magnificent creature on board it had died, so we are now eating marlin in as many ways as we can think of. Woody is a lifelong fisherman, and to pull in this marlin was a gigantic dream come true for him. As he put it: "I never need to go sport-fishing again!" I don't think anyone who was present for this catch ever does either. 

The crew of Mir has proved to be a movable feast, and once again our cast went through some changes for this final voyage. Jan and Mily left us in Sri Lanka to return to Bali after they bravely helped us to endure the heat, winds and dust of the Red Sea, and on our safe passage through Pirate Alley. Woody returned to us after spending six weeks traveling around India and Sri Lanka. And Carol Milner, who had spent seven years living aboard PCRF’s two previous vessels, Heraclitus and Infinity, jumped on board Mir, and her expertise and experience have been an invaluable help to the smooth finish of this journey.

Once across the Bay of Bengal we entered into the Strait of Malacca where unfortunately we lost our wind. We had to motor through the majority of the Strait because to try and wait out the doldrums meant not only getting nowhere, but actually getting pushed backwards by a strong current. The shipping traffic in the Strait was impressive and only got denser by the day as the Strait narrowed more and more. At about five in the morning just hours before arriving to Raffles Marina when the traffic was at its peak we lost our GPS fix and had to navigate through all of the ships and markers using only an old map.

Now we are at Raffles Marina working to put Mir to bed until January and tying up all of our loose ends before this crew scatters and this experience comes to a close.  I know I am not alone when I say that this past year has been one of the most memorable of my life, and to now be completing this project is one of the greatest accomplishments of my life. This project has proven to me the power that big dreams backed up by hard work can have in the world, a lesson that I hope will carry me far.

Just as Mir is getting put to bed after such a long trip, so too is this blog. Mir will be docked at Raffles Marina until her trip to Bali in January at which point perhaps a new crew member will pick up where I have left off. Until then, good night!